Travel in the nineteenth century was an ordeal in every sense of the word. From the moment they or their servants began packing to their arrival at their destination and initial unpacking, travelers were subjected to a seemingly endless series of uncertainties and potential disasters. The unfamiliar led to anxiety and unless the traveler was rich and well connected, the possibilities for disaster lurked around every corner. Stage coaches might tip over in bad weather, lose a wheel to mud, or be attacked by highwaymen. Coaching Inns and accommodation might be very different than expected, and beds might have vermin. If a traveler ordered bed and board, the ‘board’ (the table and hence food) might be worse than expected, either in terms of taste or quality. French visitors were notoriously acerbic about the horrors of the English table, but even for those Britons who were served a prime cut of famed English roast beef, additional seasoning was needed at table. Cruet sets, of sterling and glass, Sheffield plate, or later in the century, in silverplate, held the necessary seasonings that provided much needed flavor. In the seventeenth century, verjuice had been the condiment of choice for meats. Verjuice is a sour liquid made from underripe green grapes and is similar to vinegar, which is what later cruet sets held. Salt, mustard, vinegar, and pepper were usually provided. Whereas the French favored sauces and coveted French chefs in England served the same in English households, even those in more plebian circumstances expected some kind of relish with their meat. Then as now, foreign travelers to Britain complain about the blandness of the English diet. The custom of tempering rich roasts with a spicy kick of mustard or vinegar continues, however. Early references to verjuice are found in the diary of Samuel Pepys, and centuries later, Virginia Woolf had cause to comment on a theatrical row she witnessed between a man and woman in a restaurant that involved a pot of mustard; still an essential part of the table in the 1920s.
At every hotel, boarding house, and Inn, the traveler needed to be aware of unexpected expense. Tips to servants, called vails, were given at the end of a stay. Hot baths, tea, porter or ale, or additional linens all cost extra. The use of the cruet at table also incurred an additional expense. For inexperienced travelers unaware that ‘bed and board’ was not all inclusive, the final bill could come as a shock. For this reason, travel guides were increasingly an indispensable resource for those coming from country to town or town to country. Below are a few cruet sets from the nineteenth century. From the 1850s, ruby glass was favored, and some had enameling. Salt was served in an open salt with a spoon while pepper was in a shaker. Sterling lids or silverplate were the norm, and additional accessories like a toast rack came with breakfast. For those born in the twentieth century or later, this precise accounting of condiments might seem strange. Salt and pepper are placed on the table of nearly every restaurant, and can be requested if absent. Today, we are used to additional salad dressing portions or sauces for takeout orders being charged, and perhaps this is the nearest correlation. In many Asian restaurants, the bill is still broken up into smaller itemized charges.